South along the Irish Coast
After a couple of days in Howth the weather looked much better and so we decided to move on to Greystones about 20 miles south the other side of Dublin Bay. Early on in our visit across the Irish Sea it became apparent that not many folk answer their VHF here so we decided to phone the HM at Greystones to check berthing availability. The HM was very helpful but said that he could only accommodate us for one night instead of our planned two as we had chosen the weekend of the Greystones Regatta and over 100 boats were expected to arrive in the small marina and he only had 40 vacant berths!
We left Howth around lunchtime to catch the ebb tide across Dublin Bay and on down the coast past Bray and on to the little harbour at Greystones. As we were preparing to leave the lifeboat was called out and we saw her leave the harbour at full speed. The coxswain of the Howth lifeboat is also the marina manager so very soon everyone knew that they were on their way to rescue a yacht who was taking on water. I can't think of many more scary things to happen to a sailor than to find yourself a couple of miles off the coast with water leaking into the boat - they say the most efficient pump you can find is a frightened sailor with a bucket on a leaking boat! For the next hour or so we heard the calming professional voices of the lifeboat crew talking to the crew of the yacht giving them instructions and eventually towing them into Howth and berthing them alongside where a diver was waiting to have a look and see if the problem could be identified. I often forget that these guys are volunteers and they and the lifeboats are supported entirely from donations and legacies. No matter what the weather they will go out to sea to rescue or help others - they really are heroes and deserve recognition for that.
Our trip to Greystones was uneventful the only navigational hazard being the big ships heading in and out of Dublin and Dun Laoghaire. The charts and pilots suggested we use an inshore passage around some rocks and islands on the south side of the bay to avoid a long detour out to sea - inshore was the correct word we could almost have a conversation with the lads fishing on the pier as we shot past them on the strong ebb tide that runs through the narrow channel between the islands and the shore but at least at 8K the passage would be quicker!
Greystones is a new marina formed in the old town harbour and although all the berths are in the shore based buildings are still under construction. That said the temporary "portacabin" loos and showers were fine. Alan the HM showed us plans of what was to come and next season the whole place will be transformed into a lovely marina complex with a coffee bar/ restaurant / bar on site and of course a new purpose built toilet and shower block. The town itself is very much a holiday town with lovely beaches and plenty of cafes and restaurants along a slightly "hipster" main street. Greystones prides itself in being a very artsy place providing a home to lots of Ireland's artists, authors, actors, film directors etc, in fact the marina guide book pokes fun at Greystones "arty" side in the sort of self deprecating way that only the Irish have! That said I liked the place, the people we met were warm and friendly and interested in our story as well as happy to tell you theirs. It was a pity we couldn't stay longer.
Friday lunchtime saw us slipping our lines and leaving the small harbour heading for Arklow a further 25miles south. Again we were leaving with the hope of help from the ebb tide down the coast to Arklow however the wind was from the SE/SSE which meant that we were heading straight into it - normally this would have meant a long beat to windward but along this bit of the coast the sandbanks sit quite close in so we either had to go a long way off shore to avoid them or motor to windward. We took the lazy option and motored to windward however the wind against the ebb tide resulted in some quite large waves and as we rounded Wicklow point we were surfing through some 6' high rollers which was uncomfortable and difficult steering for the skipper but perversely also quite fun! It was a bit like being on a wet irregular roller coaster - I guess that serves us right for using the motor rather than doing the proper thing and sailing - which I'm sure would have been far more comfortable!
By early evening we were motoring between the breakwaters and into the river at Arklow. We were heading for the small independent marina on the north side of the river to tie up against the river pontoon. There is another council run marina on the south side of the river which has recently been developed in the old trawler dock but trawlers still use part of it and as yet there are no loos or showers ashore! The older original Arklow marina is tiny and the HM there (who also appears to run the local crane hire business which makes for some interesting phone conversations!) advised us that the river pontoon berths would be better for us as room to manoeuvre in the marina was limited - once we seen it we agreed!
We left Howth around lunchtime to catch the ebb tide across Dublin Bay and on down the coast past Bray and on to the little harbour at Greystones. As we were preparing to leave the lifeboat was called out and we saw her leave the harbour at full speed. The coxswain of the Howth lifeboat is also the marina manager so very soon everyone knew that they were on their way to rescue a yacht who was taking on water. I can't think of many more scary things to happen to a sailor than to find yourself a couple of miles off the coast with water leaking into the boat - they say the most efficient pump you can find is a frightened sailor with a bucket on a leaking boat! For the next hour or so we heard the calming professional voices of the lifeboat crew talking to the crew of the yacht giving them instructions and eventually towing them into Howth and berthing them alongside where a diver was waiting to have a look and see if the problem could be identified. I often forget that these guys are volunteers and they and the lifeboats are supported entirely from donations and legacies. No matter what the weather they will go out to sea to rescue or help others - they really are heroes and deserve recognition for that.
Our trip to Greystones was uneventful the only navigational hazard being the big ships heading in and out of Dublin and Dun Laoghaire. The charts and pilots suggested we use an inshore passage around some rocks and islands on the south side of the bay to avoid a long detour out to sea - inshore was the correct word we could almost have a conversation with the lads fishing on the pier as we shot past them on the strong ebb tide that runs through the narrow channel between the islands and the shore but at least at 8K the passage would be quicker!
Greystones is a new marina formed in the old town harbour and although all the berths are in the shore based buildings are still under construction. That said the temporary "portacabin" loos and showers were fine. Alan the HM showed us plans of what was to come and next season the whole place will be transformed into a lovely marina complex with a coffee bar/ restaurant / bar on site and of course a new purpose built toilet and shower block. The town itself is very much a holiday town with lovely beaches and plenty of cafes and restaurants along a slightly "hipster" main street. Greystones prides itself in being a very artsy place providing a home to lots of Ireland's artists, authors, actors, film directors etc, in fact the marina guide book pokes fun at Greystones "arty" side in the sort of self deprecating way that only the Irish have! That said I liked the place, the people we met were warm and friendly and interested in our story as well as happy to tell you theirs. It was a pity we couldn't stay longer.
Leaving Greystones with the Wicklow Mountains in the background
Friday lunchtime saw us slipping our lines and leaving the small harbour heading for Arklow a further 25miles south. Again we were leaving with the hope of help from the ebb tide down the coast to Arklow however the wind was from the SE/SSE which meant that we were heading straight into it - normally this would have meant a long beat to windward but along this bit of the coast the sandbanks sit quite close in so we either had to go a long way off shore to avoid them or motor to windward. We took the lazy option and motored to windward however the wind against the ebb tide resulted in some quite large waves and as we rounded Wicklow point we were surfing through some 6' high rollers which was uncomfortable and difficult steering for the skipper but perversely also quite fun! It was a bit like being on a wet irregular roller coaster - I guess that serves us right for using the motor rather than doing the proper thing and sailing - which I'm sure would have been far more comfortable!
By early evening we were motoring between the breakwaters and into the river at Arklow. We were heading for the small independent marina on the north side of the river to tie up against the river pontoon. There is another council run marina on the south side of the river which has recently been developed in the old trawler dock but trawlers still use part of it and as yet there are no loos or showers ashore! The older original Arklow marina is tiny and the HM there (who also appears to run the local crane hire business which makes for some interesting phone conversations!) advised us that the river pontoon berths would be better for us as room to manoeuvre in the marina was limited - once we seen it we agreed!
Tiny Arklow Marina
So we spent the next few days happily tied to a pontoon in the river waiting the right tides for our passage further south.
Waiting for the tide in Arklow.
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